Update: Lousy NY Shoots for FW19

Introduction and Interview by Kelsea Kosko

If you could bottle rays of bohemian sunlight that we dreamt the sixties and seventies were so full of, and top it with some punchlines and iconic imagery from our favorite gangster movies (because let’s face it, if you’re reading this you’re probably a sad millenial too), you would be stepping into the same autumn of 2019 that Lousy NY is envisioning.

What I love about this collection is that it’s a younger generation’s creative twist on what they imagine an era may have been like; that’s not to say that the designers and team are by no means unfamiliar with reality. They have successfully created an escape through clothing by cohesively melding their love and lust for “Old New York,” a place that they admittedly, like most of us, have visited perhaps only through the lens of cinema, into one. But instead of creating something totally nostalgic and dated, Lousy is dually and unabashedly inspired by the youth of today, incorporating a subtle, collegiate aesthetic into all of their collections. Fall 2019 is ready to wear and instantly resonates with the 20 and 30 somethings of 2019. Not to mention, Lousy’s choice of colorways, and careful consideration of the printing and embroidery techniques available to them, deserve some applause.

Edgar De La Vega has become a familiar face at the office over the past few months, quietly and consistently working on his new collection. I would peek at samples when I had the chance, tees and hoodies featuring iconic characters and old school talent, from Pam Grier to Al Pacino. To see everything come full circle is incredibly inspiring, and I can only imagine how Edgar and his colleagues must feel to see their next endeavor come full circle. We chatted briefly last week prior to the shoot to see what the team has been up to since publishing their intro about their Spring 2019 capsule earlier in the year.
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Kelsea: What have you been up to since we last talked in May?

Edgar: We’re shooting our fall collection tomorrow at a bar called Lion Lion in East Harlem at 332 East 116th street.

Kelsea: And this is for fall 2019?

Edgar: Yeah I don’t know how people do that 2020 stuff.

Kelsea: I think a lot of younger designers are sort of rebelling against that 3 seasons ahead thing.

Edgar: It’s impossible.

Kelsea: Or even just following seasons at all really. Aside from that, any upcoming pop ups or events?

Edgar: We were supposed to have one at the end of July but…it didn’t happen (laughs). As far as press, I’m really trying to start catering to the Japanese market, cause I think once [the line] picks up there, you’re good.

Kelsea: Anyone special you’re working with for your shoot?

Edgar: Instagram helps with that a lot, we have some really great models this time.

Kelsea: What is the concept for the collection this season?

Edgar: Old New York in a way, like a lot of 70s inspired stuff and some 90s inspired stuff again, but a lot of 70s this time.

Kelsea: I can’t wait to see the the colorways, I’m so into 70s right now too. Will this all be DTG, or are you experimenting with different printing techniques? What garments are you creating?

Edgar: Jackets, a hoodie, sweaters, a few tees. Doing embroidery as well.

“I’m really trying to start catering to the Japanese market, cause I think once [the line] picks up there, you’re good. ”

Kelsea: Thank you for the update Edgar, we’re excited to view the complete collection.

Edgar: Thank you.

—

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Detail of a Carlito’s Way inspired tee

Kristen Black Celebrates Her Second Nike Collab

Introduction and Interview by Kelsea Kosko

On a beautiful summer Saturday in Jackson Heights this weekend, designer and tastemaker Kristen Black (also known as KB), celebrated her second sneaker release in collaboration with Nike at All The Right, a family-owned art supply and clothing boutique that has been in business for over two decades. With only one location in New York City, All The Right served as an important resource for young creatives, graffiti artists, musicians, and muralists growing up in nearby Queens neighbhorhoods in the late 90s and early 2000s. Adjacent to the boutique is another staple, Corona Diner, also owned and operated by the same family. Both ventures sit on the corner of Corona Avenue and 92nd Street. I briefly spoke with KB about her creative efforts and the recent release of Inf4am0us, the name of her loud and colorful Air Max 270 React Premium sneaker, in front of All The Right's ever-changing sidewalk mural. Shortly after I begin to record, a man yelled from across the street, rudely instructing us to move out of the way of his phone camera's lens, not realizing or comprehending we were in the midst of an interview.

"This is my party, we don't have to move!" Kristen shouts back abbrasively in her native New York accent, adament we stand our ground despite the guy being extremely stubborn. I suggest for time's sake we just move over a bit so he would shut up.

"Sorry, it's the Queens in me, see," KB jokes.

The man is still dissatisfied with his photograph and keeps yelling at us to move, but we continue our conversation anyways because who gives a fuck.

KB’s “Sneaker Friends Are The Best Friends” tee and matching Inf4am0us Nike Air Max shoe

Kelsea: Can you introduce yourself, and tell us a little bit about where you’re from and where you grew up?

Kristen: So my name’s KB (Kristen Black), and I’m from Middle Village, New York. I started collecting sneakers when I was like, 10 years old. I just always loved sneakers, my outfit looking fly, and putting things together. It was just a very organic and natural thing.

Checkout Display at All The Right

Kelsea: What were you doing professionally before you got into designing sneakers?

Kristen: I'm actually a dance teacher- my mom owns a dance studio in Middle Village where I grew up, and I teach there every day as a choreographer.

KB’s Inf4am0us Air Max Shoe

Kelsea: How long has All The Right been open, and why did you choose to celebrate here?

Kristen: This [store] has been open maybe twenty years at least. They started this as a paint and bootleg CD shop, and then they ugraded to sneaker store and clothing boutique. This is the one and only, there are no locations in Manhattan, it's a family-owned store.

“My display is in Nike Fifth Avenue right now. They said it will likely also be displayed at the Soho store, but I find that out for sure next week. ”

“ I just always loved sneakers, my outfit looking fly, and putting things together. It was just a very organic and natural thing. ”

Kelsea: Do you have your sneakers in any other stores yet?

Kristen: So I entered a creater's program called Cultivator through Nike, and they picked me [to design]- I did three sneakers with them the first time, and I dropped them in October 2018. And after that they called me back to do it again, only this time I was chosen as Featured Creator. It was just crazy.

Kelsea: Is your display featured in any of the Nike stores?

Kristen: My display is in Nike Fifth Avenue right now. They said it will likely also be displayed at the Soho store, but I find that out for sure next week.

Kelsea: I know you are a friend of Peter Santopietro's (of SNKRHEAD) who is also a client and friend of ours at Gridlyne. When did you meet and have you collaborated on anything together?

Kristen: So no, we haven't collaborated on anything yet, but I met Peter maybe seven years ago at a sneaker event, and we just stayed friends. Like my new shirts say, "Sneaker Friends Are The Best Friends," because it's true. That's my catchphrase.

“When I made these shoes I was like, I really hope that LeBron or somebody wears them, and now Serena Williams is wearing them. It’s a moment I will always remember”

Kelsea: What is one goal you hope to accomplish by the end of 2019?

Kristen: I really feel like I have already achieved my goal for this year because when I made the shoes I was like, I really hope that LeBron or somebody wears them, and now Serena Williams is wearing them. It's a moment I will always remember. I'll probably cry right now, it's just unbelievable.

Kelsea: This has all happening so fast. So ever since you began working with Nike in October of 2018, which isn't even a year ago...

Kristen: And they didn't tell me they were gonna have Serena in my shoes. It just happened.

--

You can connect and follow KB and her work here:

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Purchase Black's Inf4am0us Air Max 270's at Nike NYC By You

Purchase an SFBF tee at The Breakdown

Black Dave of God Gang

Introduction & Interview by Kelsea Kosko

Internationally known for his musical endeavors and as a professional skateboarder for Supreme, many of our readers (myself included) never realized Dave has been designing and printing with Gridlyne for several years, initially designing gear for Stone Rollers, and most recently for his new brand, God Gang (as well as simultaneously helping his mother produce a collection of swimsuits). Always on the move from one project to the next, Black Dave, as both an entity and as a human soul, truly and tirelessly embody the spirit and mentality of New York. You know, that mentality of like, sleep is the cousin of death.

Kelsea: So when did you start making your own clothing?

Dave: Well I have merchandise for my brand Stone Rollers, and I’ve been going at that for a few years now, definitely since I met Moe, that was like when we first started to take merchandise seriously. I’ve been working with him for a few years now. ‘Cause I was looking for that DTG shit, and he made that happen. I love Moe.

Kelsea: You grew up in New York right?

Dave: Yes.

Kelsea: What part?

Dave: I’m originally from the Bronx, lived there for about ten years, and I’ve been in Harlem ever since. I spent most of my years in Harlem.

Kelsea: Any childhood or early references like TV shows, cartoons, books, or traditions that still influence your creative process today?

Dave: Definitely, as far as TV shows, The Simpsons…I’m a big 90s’ kid, all that 90s’ shit. But Simpsons in the forefront, you know. Also funny stuff like you know, SNL, Seinfeld, all that shit played a role in the way I carried myself. A lot of sarcasm.

Kelsea: Some of our readers are likely already familiar with your skateboarding and music career; can you elaborate a little bit about your professional background and what you were doing before you started making clothing? You were doing Stone Rollers, but if I’m correct, that was originally a music project, and then you began making merch for it.

Dave: Right, [Stone Rollers] was definitely a collective. I also wanted to make sure I got the organic outreach first before I started asking people for their money. So, to me it was just putting out solid music, putting out solid content, being consistent, keep skating, keep getting to the people and then we started to make merchandise for ourselves; on the tip like we just made custom stuff for each other.

Kelsea: And then other people obviously wanted that stuff too.

Dave: Exactly, yeah. Everyone has their own method to how they go about it but I just felt like, that was the best for me. To keep it organic.

“Even if the shit doesn’t sell out or we don’t make large quantities, somebody can go back to the shirt and remember something nostalgic that was cool for them. ”

Kelsea: Also known as a creative risk taker, it makes sense that designing clothing in some capacity would eventually become another outlet for you. What were some pivotal moments or memories that sparked your decision to produce apparel?

Dave: When I started working at Supreme, in like 2010/2011, I really started to see the impact of merchandise and clothes and how much it meant to the kids just to have something in their hand that was reminiscent of a time. Not so much the shirt itself. You would get a piece of clothing and remember the certain place and time. I thought that was really cool; even if the shit doesn’t sell out or we don’t make large quantities, somebody can go back to the shirt and remember something nostalgic that was cool for them.

Kelsea: If you had the opportunity to style any one fictional or non-fictional human, who would it be and what would they wear?

Dave: Larry David. I’d put him in some camo pants, and a Yankees…nah not a Yankees jersey, I think he’s a Met’s fan actually…no he’s a Yankees fan. I’d put him in some vintage t-shirt, like a vintage rap or vintage rock t-shirt, maybe some gold chains and gold teeth. With a bucket hat. Top it off with a bucket hat. That’s Larry David. ‘Cause that’s my favorite person, ever.

Kelsea: Three places, artists, or themes, that are inspiring you right now?

Dave: Well punk rock has always been one of my biggest influences, more than hip hop. Just the DYI culture, and people not really giving a fuck and just giving it to the people, just giving their message to the people unfiltered. That’s always been my energy, whether it’s for my rap or anything.

Kelsea: Any specific artists, not just music, like fine art, local artists?

Dave: I go to a lot of art shows, and I keep in touch with the art scene, I forget the name of the big show I went to a couple weeks ago, but yeah I’m definitely always staying in touch. One of my boys Harif Guzman, he’s always kinda played a big role in inspiring the youth today in regards to New York City culture, doin’ art shows for the kids, not for the “kid” kids, the younger people. So that’s my boy.

“Punk rock has always been one of my biggest influences, more than hip hop. Just the DYI culture, and people not really giving a fuck and just giving it to the people, just giving their message to the people unfiltered. That’s always been my energy, whether it’s for my rap or anything.”

Kelsea: Places? I know it’s vague.

Dave: Nah, straight up traveling is the most important thing. This January I went through something really rough, I lost my best friend so I was really in a fucked up spot. We always had plans to go to Europe, so I just took a one way flight to Europe, and I spent like two months out there, and I spent my birthday in Paris. I was in Barcelona for about a month, too. It was so amazing to just get out and get that different change of scenery. And the coolest thing about traveling with me is that skateboarding is so universal. I did not know one person in Paris, I did not know one person. I just got a hotel and went out there, and as soon as I touched down I got skaters DM’ing me like yo, come to this park, come over to here, and they showed me around, showed me what’s good to eat, showed me where to go out, linked me up with a bunch of people to make music with out there. Skateboarding is really a universal language. And we [New York skaters] sleep on it, ‘cause we have a big, tightly, knit culture where we feel like we don’t have to get out of this shit. But people show so much love to New Yorkers anywhere we go. They envy us.

Kelsea: Could you reveal or hint at something you’re currently designing? You mentioned earlier you’re working on producing a bathing suit collection to help your mom, to help her launch a swimwear line.

Dave: Yeah that’s on the low, that’s on the low though. Big shout out to my mom and her brand. Honestly, let’s talk about that because I want that to be a thing. People shouldn’t be ashamed to help their parents do creative stuff, you’re never too old to branch out and say “boom, I wanna do this”. I’ve been helping my mom for years, and now she finally needed help with social media, she finally feels like she wants to sell merch. So I linked her up with Moe, they’ve got these great bathing suits coming out. And I’m excited for her, like I really am. She’s so happy, she’s so excited to make more, and it’s like, invigorating.

Kelsea: In addition the bathing suits, are you doing anything upcoming for Stone Rollers clothing-wise?

Dave: I’ve been putting out merchandise not for Stone Rollers; that was when I first started with Moe, but I’ve been doing stuff for my brand, which is actually a movement called God Gang, and God Gang is basically like, not a religious movement, but it is…we’re definitely pushing God, I just think there is so much dark, demonic energy on the youth that I gotta push God onto the kids, give out more positive energy.

Kelsea: I think a lot of people are in the same boat as you with that feeling. People are rethinking. There’s so much hate in media and culture regarding religion, and it’s been that way for a long time. But I think younger people are starting to look back at it and um…

Dave: Nah I agree with you. I’m not gonna lie, as skateboarding we rocked Thrasher, and Thrasher always has all this demonic imagery on it and we don’t even know what we’re wearing. But to me God Gang is not so much oh, this is your religion, so this one is good and this other one must be bad, it’s just the opposite of anything dark.

Kelsea: Religion and spirituality is something so highly personal, everyone can have their own idea and own way of going about it or whatever, and the idea to even group people into different religions or sects…I hate that idea; religion is a self-discovery, is what I’m trying to get at I think. You kinda figure out your own faith or ritual.

 Dave: Exactly.

Kelsea: What is the biggest challenge or unexpected hurdle you had to overcome when you started to produce clothing, and any advice you could give to young aspiring creatives or designers?

Dave: My biggest challenge was keeping up with myself and staying consistent. When you’re putting out your own merchandise you’re being your own boss, right? So, no one can come and wake you up and say yo, do this job! Or yo, shoot these photos! So, we have to be on top of ourselves, and getting a team of people together where you can motivate each other, that’s the most important thing. Because sometimes we get too comfortable. Don’t base your stuff on anyone else’s stuff. Like if you wanna drop clothes every week, fuck it, drop every week. If you wanna drop every three months, but you know every three months you’re gonna have your photos, you’re gonna have all your merch done and samples done, drop every three months. Do the seasonal thing. It’s really just about what’s doing what’s right for you. Keep up with what you can handle.

Kelsea: Any emerging or established designers you look up to?

Dave: Well I’ve known Virgil [Abloh] for awhile, like probably since 2011. ‘Cause I used to skate for Been Trill, and Been Trill was actually him and Matthew Williams’s brand, Matthew Williams now does ALYX Clothing, ALYX Studios, so these guys have always been around me. You know it seems like in New York, almost everybody is having their own clothing brand nowadays, and that’s cool. Everyone has their own style, they have different people they cater to. They should have a place where everyone can support them, and I think that’s tight. But as far as people I’ve seen, to come in the game and go straight to the top, Virgil for sure.

“I wanna create an outlet for people to connect more, on a younger level, and speak more about what’s going on, about the pressure, about their insecurities, things that are bothering them. That’s really a goal for me. There needs to be something that’s marketed to the kids that is part of our culture that we see all the time.”

Kelsea: What is one goal or dream you hope to achieve by the end of 2019? It can be personal or professional.

Dave: Honestly, just happiness. Just happiness and stability. I had an injury recently, I sprained my knee. So I’ve been really focused on getting my mental and physical health all in the right place. I’m also a mental health advocate, the pressure is no joke. There was actually a YouTube streamer in New York who just passed away and he was 29 years old, a mother lost her son, the shit is sad. I wanna create an outlet for people to connect more, on a younger level, and speak more about what’s going on, about the pressure, about their insecurities, things that are bothering them. That’s really a goal for me. There needs to be something that’s marketed to the kids that is part of our culture that we see all the time.

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Edgar De La Vega and Corey Beaton of Lousy NY

Introduction and Interview by Kelsea Kosko

Lousy was launched in April 2017 by Edgar De La Vega and Corey Beaton, two childhood friends from Harlem who had been dreaming of starting a brand since their adolescent years. Lousy New York is far from their first creative endeavor however; Ed was kicking up dust as a videographer while working as the co-founder of Obtrusiv, an online magazine he launched in 2012. Utilizing classic color ways and bursting with tireless energy, Lousy manages to embody the spirit of a 90s New York while dually looking up to the youth of today for inspiration.

Kelsea: Can you tell us a little bit about what it was like to grow up in Harlem, NY? How did you two become childhood friends and how long ago was that? 

Ed: Growing up in Harlem in the 90s and 2000s was pretty fuckin' interesting to say the least. I look at it nostalgically now because it was so colorful and fun, but it surely wasn't the safest place in the world. I used to have nightmares about this one particular crackhead climbing through my fire escape window (LOL). Corey and I met through a mutual friend sometime in 2007. I have no idea why or where, but I know I had on an Ed Hardy trucker cap.

Corey: Growing up in Harlem was really an experience. But I feel like for the most part I had a normal childhood.  Just amplified in terms of like, experiencing things at an earlier age than other kids my age, maybe growing up a little faster. Ed and I met through a mutual friend . I believe it was like ‘06-’07 at some grungy basement where we use to go to drink.

“I fuckin’ can’t stand the word influencer and hate the whole idea behind it, but it’s so necessary in the world today, or in this field at least.”

Kelsea: What are some of the best and worst things about living in New York City in 2019?

Ed: Things are a bit cleaner and friendlier to some extent in the 2019 version of New York City depending on where you go, and I think the Q train is pretty great. However, gentrification is fucking gross, things are way too expensive, New York is ridiculously overcrowded and the trains are terrible as a whole. I love New York though and can't see myself living anywhere else. 

Corey: I hate sounding like a old curmudgeon but I feel like a lot of the spirit that made the city what it was is no longer there. I feel like there is still pockets of culture but its kind of dying out.  But I guess the good that comes with all the change is the city is safer for the most part. Less looking over your shoulders.

Kelsea: What were you doing professionally before you decided to launch your brand? What were some formative moments or experiences that led you to starting Lousy?

“I co-founded an online magazine called Obtrusiv in 2012 with a good friend of mine that was centered around interviewing emerging artists in fashion, art and music.”

Ed: Before starting Lousy I was a videographer/video editor at one place. I still work at that place and have added 1.5 other jobs on top of that doing the same type of work.

Ed: Back in 2008 my best friend in high school was working at the Rugby store on 99 University Place and I would just hangout there and watch shit. I tried to help fold some clothes and help out once because I desperately wanted to work there, but I can't fold for shit. I was 17 and only had money from selling all of my retro Jordans and SB dunks, so I couldn't afford to do much, definitely not start a brand. From watching and interacting with people who later became friends, I would store bits of information. I would then go home and search random shit on AOL pertaining to brands and style, and this went on for years. I also co-founded an online magazine called Obtrusiv in 2012 with another good friend of mine that was centered around interviewing emerging artists in fashion, art and music. Some of the knowledge those people gave stuck and helped with the creation of Lousy. It’s actually kind of weird being the interviewee here. Throughout college Corey and I would have a weekly Sunday afternoon talk about life and we always spoke about starting something, but didn't know what exactly. In April of 2017 we were drinking in his living room and decided we were gonna make some clothes. 

Corey: I was working in sales for a tech company. I think on my end things were really up in the air and I just wanted to do something I cared about. But I think prior to that I was always into fashion but not in a elitist way. I always wore what I liked. I went to boarding school and I was always in trouble for breaking the dress code.

Kelsea: While its definition has a negative connotation, I like how the word Lousy actually sounds catchy and a bit sophisticated, like if you were to detach the meaning and just go by how it sounds. How did you decide on this name and why?

“My appreciation of the word “lousy’ really came from The Catcher in the Rye and Holden’s nonstop use of it. I think I kind of identified with his character as a kid.”

Ed: Thank you for liking the word as much as we do. Going back to my previous answer, I believe the name was brought up that same night in the living room and was a word that Corey really liked from The Catcher in The Rye; Holden says that shit like 800 times and “lousy” is just a great word that isn't used as much as it should be. I could be totally wrong about this story, but this is what I remember. 

Corey: That was really the premise of it. Kind of changing the connotation of the word like dope or nasty.  I remember telling Edgar how much I liked the word “lousy” and how I thought it wasn’t used enough in conversation and he agreed. But my appreciation of the word really came from The Catcher in the Rye and Holden’s nonstop use of it. I think I kind of identified with his character as a kid. Just him being young and navigating through the city just trying to  figure out life. Lol, I don’t know if I should be revealing this. it seems like this book is kind of a manifesto for crazy people.

Kelsea: What do you like to do for fun when you’re not working on the brand?

Ed: Hmmm, this is the hardest question to answer so far. I guess I really enjoy taking showers. Showers are easily the top 1 or 2 best things to do ever in life. I’m also a diehard Yankees and Knicks fan. 

Corey: I’m a pretty low key person I really enjoy music. I like going to concerts and watching movies. Other than that, I’m spending time with friends and family.

Kelsea: Who is someone you would love to style if you could and why? It can be someone you know personally, an influencer, a celebrity, or all of the above.

Ed: Luckily the majority of my friends are great people and have purchased Lousy gear, so styling them is out of the question. I fuckin' can't stand the word influencer and hate the whole idea behind it, but it's so necessary in the world today, or in this field at least. Maybe I’m just secretly jealous of them? If I had to choose one “influencer” it'd be Steven Onoja because I've met him in person a few times during the Obtrusiv days and he's an extremely humble guy. His style is also immaculate. I don't know if styling or celebrity are the right words here, but I would love to work with, for or even shoot with, just something with Ouigi Theodore of The Brooklyn Circus. The Brooklyn Circus clothing is absolutely beautiful. Theodore has been an inspiration of mine since about 2012ish and neither of us are the biggest guys, so to see him wear amazing ass outfits and standout amongst his peers has been super inspiring. By the way, short people are gonna rule the world one day (HAHA.)

Kelsea: Who or what is inspiring you to create right now?

Ed: Brands like The Brooklyn Circus, LFANT, Ralph Lauren, Palace, and Atelier & Repairs inspire me everyday in terms of their quality, roll outs and brands a whole. They each have staying power and longevity is something I can only hope for. Seeing people wear Lousy also inspires me to continue creating, it's such a great feeling to have people fuck with your product especially when it's someone you don't know just yelling a compliment at you in the street or asking where you bought your jacket from. I also love Japanese “street” and “dapper” wear. Their silhouettes are incredible. Lastly, M. Tony Peralta of The Peralta Project is a HUGE inspiration. Being that he is Latino and brings the Latin culture to the forefront in all of his projects is fuckin' amazing. If I could personally thank him for doing so, I would.

Corey: I’m inspired by a lot of mostly older movies and references, some art. But in terms of brands, Ralph Lauren, Noah, Maison Kitsune, and Acne studios are a few that come to mind right now.

Kelsea: List one goal or dream you hope to achieve by the end of 2019. It can be personal or professional, or both. 

Ed: Personal: I'd love to go on vacation to anywhere because I haven't gone out of the TriState area in two years. That shouldn't really be a goal, but fuck it. Professional: I'd like to collaborate with a couple of brands that are similar to Lousy and maybe even one that's totally different because why not? I think collaboration is key. I'd also like to have Lousy in some boutiques. 

Kelsea: Describe your aesthetic in 3 words.

Ed: Collegiate, Universal, New York? 
Corey: Comfortable, Versatile, Effortless

Kelsea: Can you list your social media handles and website below so our readers can connect with you and purchase your clothing online?

Ed:

Instagram: @Lousy_NY

Facebook

Twitter

www.LousyNY.net

Ed: Thanks for the questions, I hope it's as fun to read as it was to write.

Model Credits

Kim (@Kimayyyyy)

Arlena (@arlena1220)

James.wav (@james.wav)

Niko (@nikko_gerena)

Martin OLoughlin of Feast or Famine

Introduction and Interview by Kelsea Kosko

Martin OLoughlin is your quintessential New Yorker- the type of individual who’s creative pursuits and personality benefit from and align perfectly with the city’s relentless grind. OLoughlin also resonates strongly with Hip-Hop Culture because of its battle-esque nature, and without spilling too much more, we invite you to soak up some of his generous words of wisdom for aspiring designers, and to learn about how Feast or Famine came to fruition.

Kelsea: Tell us a little bit about where you grew up and where you currently reside. In
what ways does your environment inspire you to create?

Martin: I grew up in a suburban town called Seekonk Mass. Right outside Providence, RI. I went
to art school in Boston, then immediately moved to NYC after graduation. I knew I
wanted to live in NYC since I was 16. New York City is the mecca for creativity. The
best of the best come here to try and make their mark. That’s my inspiration…to be
better than everyone else around me in my industry. The reason I love Hip-Hop Culture
is that everything is based on competition. Whether or not the other guys know it,
everything is a battle to me.

Kelsea: What year did you first start your brand, and how did your relationship with Gridlyne begin? 

Martin: Moe and I didn't know it but we have a mutual connection in the fashion industry. I was having lunch with my friend Frank and I was explaining to him how I make my samples in DTG to save on cost.

Once he heard this he went researching and found Gridlyne. Oddly enough, Moe and my friend Frank went to the same high School....Small world. Anyway, Frank told me about Moe and his operation and I was sold. 

I reached out to Moe and he invited me to stop by for a meet and greet. From there the rest is history. I really like how Moe is trying to bring like-minded creatives together to share ideas and discuss culture and business.

No other print house does this.. Most just want to take your money and spit you out. In my 20+ years of working in the clothing industry it's refreshing to finally see someone come with a fresh approach.

““If there’s a way to flip a dollar and make more money I’m all about it… everyone says they hustle but do they really???””

Kelsea: What are some of your other creative outlets besides designing, and how do you
manage to incorporate them into your clothing?

Martin: I don’t really have other creative outlets… I’m all about my hustle… I’m the dude who
looks forward to Mondays. I have a full-time job working as the Design Director of a
licensee company that makes fan apparel for the NBA. I also have a freelance gig
where I am the head designer for a brand called Elbowgrease. On top of that I really
enjoy day trading the Forex Market. I love investing in currency and stocks. I wish
younger people were more about this lifestyle. My son is turning 5 this year but by the
time he hits college his UTMA account should have significant funds that will help him
get a jump start in his adult years. I have also partnered with a friend of mine and we
are creating our own brand of cartridges for weed pens. We feel this is a new market
and NYC needs a better product. Basically, if there’s a way to flip a dollar and make
more money I’m all about it… everyone says they hustle but do they really???

Kelsea: Feast or Famine is bicoastal; in what ways do you enjoy tying the LA and NY
aesthetics together?

Martin: Everything for me is based around street culture and attitude. LA and NYC have the
most dominant presence in the United States. I look towards the sub-cultures of these
two great cities, listening and watching the people and the music and/or art that they
produce or use to inspire themselves and others.

““[Hunting Culture] aligns with our aesthetic of survival-of-the-fittest, but I’m forever intrigued by Wall Street and capitalism. I like the idea of merging these two ideas at the moment.””

Kelsea: Top 5 favorite hip hop albums?
Nas, Illmatic
Wu-Tang, Enter the Wu-Tang: 36 Chambers
A Tribe Called Quest, Midnight Marauders
Smif n’ Wessun, Dah Shinin’
Gangstarr, Hard to Earn

Kelsea: List one goal or dream you hope to achieve by the end of 2019. It can be
personal or professional, or both.

Martin: I need to get more eyes on the brand so if we can start getting more recognition for the designs we are pumping out that would be great. If Feast or Famine could find its way to
someone famous that would be cool. Definitely need to up them sales!
Ultimately, I just hope that all the decisions I make are the best for the company. To the
point where things just start to snowball and new and exciting opportunities start to
present themselves.

Kelsea: What is one piece of advice you’d like to give to aspiring designers?

Martin: If you want to start your own line understand that it is a long game. Design for you only. Do not chase trends. Be the trend. These larger fashion chains take from trends / emerging trends. If you try to keep up with an established brand that is owned by big money you will drown. This industry is very tough. I have been designing clothes for over 15 years. I have made a ton of contacts that range from factory owners, sales people, buyers, etc. At the end of the day all of these contacts are part of a larger system at work and will very rarely help out someone who is starting a new line. They want to work with companies that can move mass amounts of units. Do as much as you can without spending money. Get a name, start printing shirts by method of DTG. Set up an Instagram page. Websites are cheap. Stickers are cheap. Get out and try to pump your own brand as much as possible. Listen to the Rebel 8 podcast. They have been in the game for 16 years and the owner Josh is sharing his journey and it is so great to hear his humbling story. He drops a lot of gems that any up and comer should here. Limit your overhead. Do not create too much inventory that you cannot sell. Sell direct to consumer. Go knock on doors in your area that you think should
carry your brand. Seed product to influencers. But make sure you create enough of a rapport that
they honor your agreement and you get good quality posts that tag your brand.

Kelsea: If you could style one fictional character from a movie, TV show, or book, who
would you choose and why? What would they wear?

Martin: I like Harris Woods from Paid in Full. He plays Ace. I like his humble but Boss
demeanor. I would definitely dress him in the Sink Your Teeth t-shirt. Even though his
character doesn’t really wear too much flashy jewelry he wanted a taste of the game.
That was enough to lure him in. Also, he came to a point in his life where it was time to
make a decision. Either be broke or try to get a piece of the pie. It was Feast or Famine
time so that related to us big time!

Kelsea: Can you hint at (without revealing too much) one upcoming collaboration or product
you are excited to release in the near future?

Martin: Been in talks with thedrop.com to offer our products on their platform to expose us to a larger audience. Also, we have a couple more t-shirt drops for Spring/Summer 19 but
we’re really getting focused on Fall 19.

“I would definitely dress [Ace from Paid in Full] in the Sink Your Teeth t-shirt. Even though his 
character doesn’t really wear too much flashy jewelry he wanted a taste of the game.”

Kelsea: What are 3 places, people, or things that are inspiring you right now?

Martin: Animal Prints / Camouflage, Wall Street, & Hunting.
Right now I’m looking at hunting culture. The concept aligns with our aesthetic of
survival-of-the-fittest but I’m forever intrigued by Wall Street and capitalism. I like the
idea of merging these two ideas at the moment.

Kelsea: Can you list your social media handles and website below so our readers can
connect with you and purchase your clothing online? 

Website: Feastorfamineofficial.com
Instagram: @feastorfamineofficial

Kelsea Kosko- Department Of Happiness

“ I have here Kelsea with us and We get to sit down and discuss the D.O.H. story! I want to personally welcome you to Our Most Recent Entry into our Blog (and a truly special one it is too) because We focus our spotlight onto a fresh, up & coming Brand that is run by the most talented & cool Kelsea, & Gang at the Department Of Happiness Clothing Brand. Located on 265 Canal Street in the Canal Street market. We were lucky enough to both make time to sit down and have a one-to-one with them and pick their minds about: What exactly their Brand is about, and how it came together. There is so much to learn from their story.”

Department of Happiness

265 Canal Street, Canal Street Market

1.) Do you remember when you first became aware of Art

My father has always written notes in this old school, comic strip like hand style, like super fine lined, italicized, all caps, and he would draw Porky the Pig and other Looney Tunes characters whenever we got hooked up with crayons and the white tablecloth at a restaurant. That was the first time I felt aware of art I guess; that and typography. My dad has always been a huge inspiration to me as far as art, poetry, and entrepreneurship is concerned. 

“My dad has always been a huge inspiration to me as far as art, poetry, and entrepreneurship is concerned. ”

— Kelsea K.

2.) When did your love for Art translate into fashion?

For me it is actually the other way around. I was super into fashion in high school and started a magazine with some bloggers I met through the internet, who I ended up befriending when I moved to New York a few years later. I also was doing a little bit of modeling and got some real world experience and career inspiration from my time spent in that industry, but I still felt like I was exploring and figuring out what I really wanted to do. I met a lot of artists during the first few years here as everything is interconnected, and that is when my interest in fashion waned a little and I started to pay more attention to the fine art scene. 

3.) What inspired you to start your own business?

The business inspiration came while I was working for Matt Roberge of Vintage Sponsor. At the time I was feeling frustrated and unsure of myself with what I was doing career-wise, just selling clothes on the internet and stuff, when he told me he was opening a retail shop at Canal Street Market down the block from my apartment and offered me a job. Over the course of several months my role at the store evolved from sales girl to social media and marketing coordinator for Matt’s brick and mortar location. Because Matt was always busy traveling, thrifting, and running the e-commcerce site, he pretty much gave me and my colleague Kayla the reigns to run the Canal Street store, and over the course of eight months I felt I had gained a good basic understanding of how to sustain a small business. And I loved the people I met and friends I made at VS, and the level of responsibility Matt had bestowed in me, and I realized working a store might be something I might be able to pull off. 

4.) How did you get your start and what does fashion mean to you?

I made connections and many good friends and coworkers during my time at Canal Street Market. When Vintage Sponsor closed in November, I was offered the opportunity to open my own booth in January and went from there. I believe that fashion, or one’s personal style, is narrative in nature, and someone who is super stylish is good at conveying the most beautiful or pivotal moments of their life through their clothing. Also, fashion is never fast. There is beauty in process, quality, and time. 

5.) Describe your creative process.

I source vintage blanks and find or design production art that matches not only the era of each individual blank but also the colors and texture of the piece. One-offs are as exciting to make as shooting and developing film. It’s a surprise every time and only one person in the world can have your finished piece!

“One-offs are as exciting to make as shooting and developing film. It’s a surprise every time and only one person in the world can have your finished piece!”

I once found a burgundy vintage Champion sweatshirt with orange bleach streaks on it at Goodwill. I was looking at Project Pat album art for design reference material one night and came across the Layin’ Da Smack Down cover. I thought damn, the mood and colors of this album art and the Champion sweat would go perfectly together, because there are flames in the cover that match the orange bleach streaks on the sweat. And nobody could recreate this exact piece because the garment itself is truly a one-off. So I had my friend Jalil model it and he tagged Project Pat in the post, and Pat himself reposted it within five minutes.  But yes, if I could choose anyone to make apparel for, it would be Project Pat, being from the south, I love him, and he is one of my favorite music artists. I hope he liked the one-off we created. 

6) How did you find your way into production?

I was at an art opening at Magenta Plains and I ran into Jonny Gillette, an artist who was a regular at a barbershop I used to work at. We somehow got into talking about making tees for fun, and he referred me to Moe at Gridlyne. So thank you Jonny for hooking me up with the most wonderful printer I could have ever stumbled upon. 

7.) what makes the market different now then ever before?

Obviously fast fashion and e-commerce have completely changed the market. A retail space is basically a marketing tool at this point. Your shop is not something you can always count on as a primary source of income. But I still believe despite how easy it is to open an online store, having a public space elevates your brand, and transforms it from just another website to something that celebrates the idea of a local community and neighborhood.

8.) What is the biggest lesson that you have learned since you started your company?

Be generous and show love to all your customers and colleagues, but remember to be fair to yourself too.

9.) What has been the most difficult aspect of getting your company off the ground and how did you overcome that?

We opened on January 3rd, basically the first day of the post-holiday season. My fault, my choice, and my risk. We overcame it by being patient and taking the slow days to work on marketing and product, and now things are starting to pick up. I’m grateful for my friends and colleagues for being patient with me, as well and encouraging me to keep it going. 

10.) What are two aspects of your business in which you believe a new brand should invest resources?

Department of Happiness is a product of a full service branding agency that offers design services, creative consultation, brand identity and key asset creation. Not only can we help build brand identity, but we use our shop and our site as an incubator space to sell new clients’ and collaborators’ products.

11.) If you could describe your brand philosophy in three words? What would they be?
Workwear/One-offs/Mental Health Awareness

12.) Is there a particular artist who inspires you? What notable creatives have you designed with?

Shay Semple, Aaron Ginsberg, Peter Sutherland, Stephen Palladino, Tommy Malekoff, sorry there’s a lot!! I have collaborated with two of my favorite artists, Jesse Edwards and Stephen Palladino, to make a few one-off limited edition tees.

Where can our readers follow your brand on social media and purchase your clothing on the web?

Shop IG: @department0fhappiness

Website: deptofhappiness.com

Website: kelseakosko.com

Personal IG: @kelseakosko
 

SpotLight on - Ansel J. from No Facades Brand

One of the first topics of discussion when we were determining what direction this blog would take, was how do we better showcase the work GridLyne does. As the conversation revolved around being of service to the artistic community, helping designers create their visual representation and bringing awareness to up-and-coming brands, a good friend of ours from high school walked through the door, Ansel James, founder and designer of No Facades. 2 years ago, No Facades was just an idea. Today, we print over 10 designs for his brand, and it all started at GridLyne.

Here is just a couple of the designs we print for No Facades.

Behind the Scenes