Update: Lousy NY Shoots for FW19

Introduction and Interview by Kelsea Kosko

If you could bottle rays of bohemian sunlight that we dreamt the sixties and seventies were so full of, and top it with some punchlines and iconic imagery from our favorite gangster movies (because let’s face it, if you’re reading this you’re probably a sad millenial too), you would be stepping into the same autumn of 2019 that Lousy NY is envisioning.

What I love about this collection is that it’s a younger generation’s creative twist on what they imagine an era may have been like; that’s not to say that the designers and team are by no means unfamiliar with reality. They have successfully created an escape through clothing by cohesively melding their love and lust for “Old New York,” a place that they admittedly, like most of us, have visited perhaps only through the lens of cinema, into one. But instead of creating something totally nostalgic and dated, Lousy is dually and unabashedly inspired by the youth of today, incorporating a subtle, collegiate aesthetic into all of their collections. Fall 2019 is ready to wear and instantly resonates with the 20 and 30 somethings of 2019. Not to mention, Lousy’s choice of colorways, and careful consideration of the printing and embroidery techniques available to them, deserve some applause.

Edgar De La Vega has become a familiar face at the office over the past few months, quietly and consistently working on his new collection. I would peek at samples when I had the chance, tees and hoodies featuring iconic characters and old school talent, from Pam Grier to Al Pacino. To see everything come full circle is incredibly inspiring, and I can only imagine how Edgar and his colleagues must feel to see their next endeavor come full circle. We chatted briefly last week prior to the shoot to see what the team has been up to since publishing their intro about their Spring 2019 capsule earlier in the year.
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Kelsea: What have you been up to since we last talked in May?

Edgar: We’re shooting our fall collection tomorrow at a bar called Lion Lion in East Harlem at 332 East 116th street.

Kelsea: And this is for fall 2019?

Edgar: Yeah I don’t know how people do that 2020 stuff.

Kelsea: I think a lot of younger designers are sort of rebelling against that 3 seasons ahead thing.

Edgar: It’s impossible.

Kelsea: Or even just following seasons at all really. Aside from that, any upcoming pop ups or events?

Edgar: We were supposed to have one at the end of July but…it didn’t happen (laughs). As far as press, I’m really trying to start catering to the Japanese market, cause I think once [the line] picks up there, you’re good.

Kelsea: Anyone special you’re working with for your shoot?

Edgar: Instagram helps with that a lot, we have some really great models this time.

Kelsea: What is the concept for the collection this season?

Edgar: Old New York in a way, like a lot of 70s inspired stuff and some 90s inspired stuff again, but a lot of 70s this time.

Kelsea: I can’t wait to see the the colorways, I’m so into 70s right now too. Will this all be DTG, or are you experimenting with different printing techniques? What garments are you creating?

Edgar: Jackets, a hoodie, sweaters, a few tees. Doing embroidery as well.

“I’m really trying to start catering to the Japanese market, cause I think once [the line] picks up there, you’re good. ”

Kelsea: Thank you for the update Edgar, we’re excited to view the complete collection.

Edgar: Thank you.

—

You can connect with Lousy NY here:

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Detail of a Carlito’s Way inspired tee

Edgar De La Vega and Corey Beaton of Lousy NY

Introduction and Interview by Kelsea Kosko

Lousy was launched in April 2017 by Edgar De La Vega and Corey Beaton, two childhood friends from Harlem who had been dreaming of starting a brand since their adolescent years. Lousy New York is far from their first creative endeavor however; Ed was kicking up dust as a videographer while working as the co-founder of Obtrusiv, an online magazine he launched in 2012. Utilizing classic color ways and bursting with tireless energy, Lousy manages to embody the spirit of a 90s New York while dually looking up to the youth of today for inspiration.

Kelsea: Can you tell us a little bit about what it was like to grow up in Harlem, NY? How did you two become childhood friends and how long ago was that? 

Ed: Growing up in Harlem in the 90s and 2000s was pretty fuckin' interesting to say the least. I look at it nostalgically now because it was so colorful and fun, but it surely wasn't the safest place in the world. I used to have nightmares about this one particular crackhead climbing through my fire escape window (LOL). Corey and I met through a mutual friend sometime in 2007. I have no idea why or where, but I know I had on an Ed Hardy trucker cap.

Corey: Growing up in Harlem was really an experience. But I feel like for the most part I had a normal childhood.  Just amplified in terms of like, experiencing things at an earlier age than other kids my age, maybe growing up a little faster. Ed and I met through a mutual friend . I believe it was like ‘06-’07 at some grungy basement where we use to go to drink.

“I fuckin’ can’t stand the word influencer and hate the whole idea behind it, but it’s so necessary in the world today, or in this field at least.”

Kelsea: What are some of the best and worst things about living in New York City in 2019?

Ed: Things are a bit cleaner and friendlier to some extent in the 2019 version of New York City depending on where you go, and I think the Q train is pretty great. However, gentrification is fucking gross, things are way too expensive, New York is ridiculously overcrowded and the trains are terrible as a whole. I love New York though and can't see myself living anywhere else. 

Corey: I hate sounding like a old curmudgeon but I feel like a lot of the spirit that made the city what it was is no longer there. I feel like there is still pockets of culture but its kind of dying out.  But I guess the good that comes with all the change is the city is safer for the most part. Less looking over your shoulders.

Kelsea: What were you doing professionally before you decided to launch your brand? What were some formative moments or experiences that led you to starting Lousy?

“I co-founded an online magazine called Obtrusiv in 2012 with a good friend of mine that was centered around interviewing emerging artists in fashion, art and music.”

Ed: Before starting Lousy I was a videographer/video editor at one place. I still work at that place and have added 1.5 other jobs on top of that doing the same type of work.

Ed: Back in 2008 my best friend in high school was working at the Rugby store on 99 University Place and I would just hangout there and watch shit. I tried to help fold some clothes and help out once because I desperately wanted to work there, but I can't fold for shit. I was 17 and only had money from selling all of my retro Jordans and SB dunks, so I couldn't afford to do much, definitely not start a brand. From watching and interacting with people who later became friends, I would store bits of information. I would then go home and search random shit on AOL pertaining to brands and style, and this went on for years. I also co-founded an online magazine called Obtrusiv in 2012 with another good friend of mine that was centered around interviewing emerging artists in fashion, art and music. Some of the knowledge those people gave stuck and helped with the creation of Lousy. It’s actually kind of weird being the interviewee here. Throughout college Corey and I would have a weekly Sunday afternoon talk about life and we always spoke about starting something, but didn't know what exactly. In April of 2017 we were drinking in his living room and decided we were gonna make some clothes. 

Corey: I was working in sales for a tech company. I think on my end things were really up in the air and I just wanted to do something I cared about. But I think prior to that I was always into fashion but not in a elitist way. I always wore what I liked. I went to boarding school and I was always in trouble for breaking the dress code.

Kelsea: While its definition has a negative connotation, I like how the word Lousy actually sounds catchy and a bit sophisticated, like if you were to detach the meaning and just go by how it sounds. How did you decide on this name and why?

“My appreciation of the word “lousy’ really came from The Catcher in the Rye and Holden’s nonstop use of it. I think I kind of identified with his character as a kid.”

Ed: Thank you for liking the word as much as we do. Going back to my previous answer, I believe the name was brought up that same night in the living room and was a word that Corey really liked from The Catcher in The Rye; Holden says that shit like 800 times and “lousy” is just a great word that isn't used as much as it should be. I could be totally wrong about this story, but this is what I remember. 

Corey: That was really the premise of it. Kind of changing the connotation of the word like dope or nasty.  I remember telling Edgar how much I liked the word “lousy” and how I thought it wasn’t used enough in conversation and he agreed. But my appreciation of the word really came from The Catcher in the Rye and Holden’s nonstop use of it. I think I kind of identified with his character as a kid. Just him being young and navigating through the city just trying to  figure out life. Lol, I don’t know if I should be revealing this. it seems like this book is kind of a manifesto for crazy people.

Kelsea: What do you like to do for fun when you’re not working on the brand?

Ed: Hmmm, this is the hardest question to answer so far. I guess I really enjoy taking showers. Showers are easily the top 1 or 2 best things to do ever in life. I’m also a diehard Yankees and Knicks fan. 

Corey: I’m a pretty low key person I really enjoy music. I like going to concerts and watching movies. Other than that, I’m spending time with friends and family.

Kelsea: Who is someone you would love to style if you could and why? It can be someone you know personally, an influencer, a celebrity, or all of the above.

Ed: Luckily the majority of my friends are great people and have purchased Lousy gear, so styling them is out of the question. I fuckin' can't stand the word influencer and hate the whole idea behind it, but it's so necessary in the world today, or in this field at least. Maybe I’m just secretly jealous of them? If I had to choose one “influencer” it'd be Steven Onoja because I've met him in person a few times during the Obtrusiv days and he's an extremely humble guy. His style is also immaculate. I don't know if styling or celebrity are the right words here, but I would love to work with, for or even shoot with, just something with Ouigi Theodore of The Brooklyn Circus. The Brooklyn Circus clothing is absolutely beautiful. Theodore has been an inspiration of mine since about 2012ish and neither of us are the biggest guys, so to see him wear amazing ass outfits and standout amongst his peers has been super inspiring. By the way, short people are gonna rule the world one day (HAHA.)

Kelsea: Who or what is inspiring you to create right now?

Ed: Brands like The Brooklyn Circus, LFANT, Ralph Lauren, Palace, and Atelier & Repairs inspire me everyday in terms of their quality, roll outs and brands a whole. They each have staying power and longevity is something I can only hope for. Seeing people wear Lousy also inspires me to continue creating, it's such a great feeling to have people fuck with your product especially when it's someone you don't know just yelling a compliment at you in the street or asking where you bought your jacket from. I also love Japanese “street” and “dapper” wear. Their silhouettes are incredible. Lastly, M. Tony Peralta of The Peralta Project is a HUGE inspiration. Being that he is Latino and brings the Latin culture to the forefront in all of his projects is fuckin' amazing. If I could personally thank him for doing so, I would.

Corey: I’m inspired by a lot of mostly older movies and references, some art. But in terms of brands, Ralph Lauren, Noah, Maison Kitsune, and Acne studios are a few that come to mind right now.

Kelsea: List one goal or dream you hope to achieve by the end of 2019. It can be personal or professional, or both. 

Ed: Personal: I'd love to go on vacation to anywhere because I haven't gone out of the TriState area in two years. That shouldn't really be a goal, but fuck it. Professional: I'd like to collaborate with a couple of brands that are similar to Lousy and maybe even one that's totally different because why not? I think collaboration is key. I'd also like to have Lousy in some boutiques. 

Kelsea: Describe your aesthetic in 3 words.

Ed: Collegiate, Universal, New York? 
Corey: Comfortable, Versatile, Effortless

Kelsea: Can you list your social media handles and website below so our readers can connect with you and purchase your clothing online?

Ed:

Instagram: @Lousy_NY

Facebook

Twitter

www.LousyNY.net

Ed: Thanks for the questions, I hope it's as fun to read as it was to write.

Model Credits

Kim (@Kimayyyyy)

Arlena (@arlena1220)

James.wav (@james.wav)

Niko (@nikko_gerena)

Kelsea Kosko- Department Of Happiness

“ I have here Kelsea with us and We get to sit down and discuss the D.O.H. story! I want to personally welcome you to Our Most Recent Entry into our Blog (and a truly special one it is too) because We focus our spotlight onto a fresh, up & coming Brand that is run by the most talented & cool Kelsea, & Gang at the Department Of Happiness Clothing Brand. Located on 265 Canal Street in the Canal Street market. We were lucky enough to both make time to sit down and have a one-to-one with them and pick their minds about: What exactly their Brand is about, and how it came together. There is so much to learn from their story.”

Department of Happiness

265 Canal Street, Canal Street Market

1.) Do you remember when you first became aware of Art

My father has always written notes in this old school, comic strip like hand style, like super fine lined, italicized, all caps, and he would draw Porky the Pig and other Looney Tunes characters whenever we got hooked up with crayons and the white tablecloth at a restaurant. That was the first time I felt aware of art I guess; that and typography. My dad has always been a huge inspiration to me as far as art, poetry, and entrepreneurship is concerned. 

“My dad has always been a huge inspiration to me as far as art, poetry, and entrepreneurship is concerned. ”

— Kelsea K.

2.) When did your love for Art translate into fashion?

For me it is actually the other way around. I was super into fashion in high school and started a magazine with some bloggers I met through the internet, who I ended up befriending when I moved to New York a few years later. I also was doing a little bit of modeling and got some real world experience and career inspiration from my time spent in that industry, but I still felt like I was exploring and figuring out what I really wanted to do. I met a lot of artists during the first few years here as everything is interconnected, and that is when my interest in fashion waned a little and I started to pay more attention to the fine art scene. 

3.) What inspired you to start your own business?

The business inspiration came while I was working for Matt Roberge of Vintage Sponsor. At the time I was feeling frustrated and unsure of myself with what I was doing career-wise, just selling clothes on the internet and stuff, when he told me he was opening a retail shop at Canal Street Market down the block from my apartment and offered me a job. Over the course of several months my role at the store evolved from sales girl to social media and marketing coordinator for Matt’s brick and mortar location. Because Matt was always busy traveling, thrifting, and running the e-commcerce site, he pretty much gave me and my colleague Kayla the reigns to run the Canal Street store, and over the course of eight months I felt I had gained a good basic understanding of how to sustain a small business. And I loved the people I met and friends I made at VS, and the level of responsibility Matt had bestowed in me, and I realized working a store might be something I might be able to pull off. 

4.) How did you get your start and what does fashion mean to you?

I made connections and many good friends and coworkers during my time at Canal Street Market. When Vintage Sponsor closed in November, I was offered the opportunity to open my own booth in January and went from there. I believe that fashion, or one’s personal style, is narrative in nature, and someone who is super stylish is good at conveying the most beautiful or pivotal moments of their life through their clothing. Also, fashion is never fast. There is beauty in process, quality, and time. 

5.) Describe your creative process.

I source vintage blanks and find or design production art that matches not only the era of each individual blank but also the colors and texture of the piece. One-offs are as exciting to make as shooting and developing film. It’s a surprise every time and only one person in the world can have your finished piece!

“One-offs are as exciting to make as shooting and developing film. It’s a surprise every time and only one person in the world can have your finished piece!”

I once found a burgundy vintage Champion sweatshirt with orange bleach streaks on it at Goodwill. I was looking at Project Pat album art for design reference material one night and came across the Layin’ Da Smack Down cover. I thought damn, the mood and colors of this album art and the Champion sweat would go perfectly together, because there are flames in the cover that match the orange bleach streaks on the sweat. And nobody could recreate this exact piece because the garment itself is truly a one-off. So I had my friend Jalil model it and he tagged Project Pat in the post, and Pat himself reposted it within five minutes.  But yes, if I could choose anyone to make apparel for, it would be Project Pat, being from the south, I love him, and he is one of my favorite music artists. I hope he liked the one-off we created. 

6) How did you find your way into production?

I was at an art opening at Magenta Plains and I ran into Jonny Gillette, an artist who was a regular at a barbershop I used to work at. We somehow got into talking about making tees for fun, and he referred me to Moe at Gridlyne. So thank you Jonny for hooking me up with the most wonderful printer I could have ever stumbled upon. 

7.) what makes the market different now then ever before?

Obviously fast fashion and e-commerce have completely changed the market. A retail space is basically a marketing tool at this point. Your shop is not something you can always count on as a primary source of income. But I still believe despite how easy it is to open an online store, having a public space elevates your brand, and transforms it from just another website to something that celebrates the idea of a local community and neighborhood.

8.) What is the biggest lesson that you have learned since you started your company?

Be generous and show love to all your customers and colleagues, but remember to be fair to yourself too.

9.) What has been the most difficult aspect of getting your company off the ground and how did you overcome that?

We opened on January 3rd, basically the first day of the post-holiday season. My fault, my choice, and my risk. We overcame it by being patient and taking the slow days to work on marketing and product, and now things are starting to pick up. I’m grateful for my friends and colleagues for being patient with me, as well and encouraging me to keep it going. 

10.) What are two aspects of your business in which you believe a new brand should invest resources?

Department of Happiness is a product of a full service branding agency that offers design services, creative consultation, brand identity and key asset creation. Not only can we help build brand identity, but we use our shop and our site as an incubator space to sell new clients’ and collaborators’ products.

11.) If you could describe your brand philosophy in three words? What would they be?
Workwear/One-offs/Mental Health Awareness

12.) Is there a particular artist who inspires you? What notable creatives have you designed with?

Shay Semple, Aaron Ginsberg, Peter Sutherland, Stephen Palladino, Tommy Malekoff, sorry there’s a lot!! I have collaborated with two of my favorite artists, Jesse Edwards and Stephen Palladino, to make a few one-off limited edition tees.

Where can our readers follow your brand on social media and purchase your clothing on the web?

Shop IG: @department0fhappiness

Website: deptofhappiness.com

Website: kelseakosko.com

Personal IG: @kelseakosko
 

Starting a New Year at the Gridlyne.

First and foremost, I would like to wish everyone a happy and blessed New Year from all of us here at Gridlyne. Thank you from the bottom of our hearts for your continued support.

For the new year, I wanted to include a personal anecdote on what starting at Gridlyne meant to me on a personal level and not just professionally. I wrote this as an introductory article a few weeks ago, but I thought sharing it on New Years Day was more appropriate. I would like to thank you personally for taking the time to read this little story:

As a new contributor for Gridlyne’s blog, Print or Dye, I thought I would reintroduce myself and the concept behind Gridlyne from a “new” perspective. I sat down with the founder/designer, Moe, to get the 411 on how Gridlyne came to be. As I was asking him questions, we were talking about something that no words can truly encapsulate.  But he said something I related to instantaneously, Gridlyne was his baby. As a father, I understood immediately all the answers to the questions asked and unasked.  The article changed in to something more personal to me, about what working at GridLyne meant on my journey, not just as a father but as one trying to build something for his son. A legacy.

I want to start by saying, I have been friends with Moe for a long time. In fact, I first met him in junior high school in Astoria, Queens, New York. Despite not being very close in those early days, there was a common bond that would follow us throughout, Art. After returning to his old school and I finishing up at I.S. 204, we found ourselves meeting again, through that bond, at the High School of Art and Design in 1997.

Upon graduation in 2001, I would go on to attend one year at the Joe Kubert School for Cartooning and Graphic Art and beginning in 2005-2008, I attended the illustration program at the Fashion Institute of Technology. I lost contact with most people, which I am prone to do, and began something of my own personal Hero’s Journey in 2008. Moe would begin the acquisition of skills and knowledge that would culminate in the incorporating of his own business in 2007, and Gridlyne was born.

Sometime in 2008, I began reading and writing extensively. I read hundreds of books and wrote hundreds of pages of material. What started as a coping mechanism for depression, ended up becoming something I would brazenly call my “Magnum Opus.” After the birth of my son 3 years later, in 2011, the story would finally have its hero. But a piece of the story, a part of the beginning, would not make sense without a very specific moment. Working with the Gridlyne Design Collective and utilizing Moe’s expertise in printing.

That’s right! 10 years before I became a writer for his blog, I had written working with him. In my story, a character creates a logo/brand but lacks the resources and knowledge to bring the logo from concept to reality. For this character, it would set off a chain of events that would change the course of his story. But I digress, I still needed to reconnect with an old friend.

In 2013, I attended an annual BBQ held by Moe, since our class graduated in 2001. I made a brief mention of my project but felt I had not earned his ear to listen to my grandiose plan. I enjoyed the company of old friends and made no mention of it again. Between the pendulum swings of emotions, from feeling on top of the world to the bottom of the barrel, I once again faded in to obscurity.

I let another 2 years go by before I started contacting Moe again in 2015. There was only one problem, I still only had a concept and the logo didn’t make its way in to my consciousness until 2016. It would take me another 2 years to finally reach out again, from a self-imposed exile so I may refine and re-imagine parts of the story once I designed the logo. And in 2018, I was finally ready to talk about my concept and utilize all the services Gridlyne has to offer.

• On-demand printing on any garment of clothing or merchandise that can be sublimated, printed or dyed,

• DTG or Direct to Garment printing services for immediate turnarounds,

• Screen Printing, and

• Branding Services

After years of writing and planning I finally found the place I could call “the Bat Cave.” Like Bruce Wayne falling in to the cave, I found my base of operations.

So, I am not only introducing myself as a contributor to GridLyne’s growing family, I am also a client. I truly appreciate you taking the time to read this deeply personal vignette and I can not wait to share the journey with you. In closing, I would like to disclose our mission statement:

We are trying to solve humanity’s problems, one t-shirt at a time.

H.S. of Art and Design

circa 2000

SpotLight on - Ansel J. from No Facades Brand

One of the first topics of discussion when we were determining what direction this blog would take, was how do we better showcase the work GridLyne does. As the conversation revolved around being of service to the artistic community, helping designers create their visual representation and bringing awareness to up-and-coming brands, a good friend of ours from high school walked through the door, Ansel James, founder and designer of No Facades. 2 years ago, No Facades was just an idea. Today, we print over 10 designs for his brand, and it all started at GridLyne.

Here is just a couple of the designs we print for No Facades.

Behind the Scenes